The Role of Fashion in the Harlem Renaissance
A vibrant Harlem street scene during the Harlem Renaissance, showcasing the energy of the neighborhood as a cultural and economic hub.
The Harlem Renaissance (1920s-1930s) was a cultural movement for Black creatives, centered in Harlem, New York. This era marked a turning point in the self-expression and identity of Black Americans, fostering a vibrant community of artists, musicians, writers, and more. However, before we share the beauty of this transformative era, it's essential to understand the pain from which it emerged.
You’ve probably heard of the Great Migration, a period when millions of Black Americans fled the oppressive conditions of the South to seek freedom and opportunity in the North. In the South, racial prejudice and harsh oppression made it nearly impossible for Black people to not only survive but to thrive creatively. Harlem, one of the cities that became a destination for this migration, eventually transformed into a cultural hub, giving birth to what we now know as the Harlem Renaissance.
The rise of Black-owned businesses, newspapers, and social clubs helped create a new Black elite that became instrumental in shaping culture, influencing style, and sparking new trends. Harlem’s vibrant nightlife, especially jazz clubs like the Savoy Ballroom and the Cotton Club also played a pivotal role in defining the fashion trends of the time.
The Savoy Ballroom, Harlem, 1952 – Unlike many venues of its time, the Savoy was an integrated dance hall where Black and white patrons could share the dance floor. Opening in 1926, it became a hub for swing music and jazz, hosting legendary performers like Chick Webb and Ella Fitzgerald while fostering Harlem’s vibrant dance culture.
Fashion has always held a special significance within the Black community. Subconsciously, a desire to present oneself well can be seen as a response to centuries of oppression, a way to assert dignity and humanity despite adversity. Sadly, this need to look presentable dates back to slavery, where the enslaved were often dressed in a way that was deemed acceptable by their captors—emphasizing appearance over individuality.
As Black Americans began to assert their autonomy and pride during the Harlem Renaissance, fashion became one of the most powerful forms of self-expression and resistance, reflecting the spirit of the era and the defiance of social norms. Clothing in this era wasn’t just about looking good—it was about making a statement. After centuries of being stripped of their cultural identities and being forced into degrading stereotypes, Black Americans in Harlem used fashion as a tool to reclaim dignity and challenge societal norms.
This desire for self-expression through fashion was also linked to economic empowerment. As Harlem’s economy grew, Black-owned businesses like tailoring shops and millineries thrived, allowing artists and entertainers to embrace and showcase styles that symbolized their success. For many entrepreneurs, especially in the fashion industry, this period was a time of not just financial independence but also resistance to systemic exclusion.
These businesses not only catered to Harlem's elite but also helped shape the city’s fashion scene, making it a vibrant center of creativity and cultural expression. Fashion became a reflection of personal style and a symbol of social mobility in a racially segregated society. This vibrant culture of style was embodied by the fashion icons of the Harlem Renaissance, who became powerful symbols of creativity, confidence, and cultural pride.
Black women learning the art of fashion design at the Margaret Murray Washington School, which provided vocational training and opportunities in dressmaking and tailoring. Schools like this were instrumental in equipping Black women with skills for economic independence, contributing to Harlem’s thriving fashion scene during the Renaissance.
The Harlem Renaissance Fashion Icons
Among the most influential fashion icons of the Harlem Renaissance were musicians, performers, and socialites who set trends through their bold wardrobes. Figures like Josephine Baker, Billie Holiday, and Langston Hughes stand out not only for their artistic contributions but for their distinctive style.
Josephine Baker, known for her performances in Paris, became a global symbol of Black beauty and style. She embraced the art of dance, often wearing elaborate costumes, feathers, and sequins, which blended elegance with theatricality. Billie Holiday, known for her hauntingly beautiful voice, was also a style icon, often seen in glamorous, understated gowns and adorned with flowers in her hair. Her fashion choices spoke to her powerful yet vulnerable persona, while also embracing the elegance of Harlem's nightlife.
These icons—along with countless others—showed how fashion could merge with artistic expression and carry deeper meanings about Black identity and resistance to cultural erasure. Harlem Renaissance figures were not just entertainers; they were trendsetters whose style influenced generations to come.
Influential icons (Josephine Baker, Billie Holiday and Langston Hughes) of the Harlem Renaissance who shaped culture through dance, music, literature, and fashion, each with a distinctive style that left a lasting impact.
The Style of the Harlem Renaissance: Zoot Suits and Flapper Dresses
Fashion during the Harlem Renaissance was bold, expressive, and symbolic of cultural shifts happening at the time. Two of the most iconic styles that emerged were the zoot suit and the flapper dress, both of which became synonymous with Harlem’s social scene.
The zoot suit, popular among Black and Latino men, featured exaggerated proportions: high-waisted, wide-legged trousers, long jackets with padded shoulders, and bold accessories like fedoras and pocket chains. This oversized look was more than a fashion statement—it was an act of rebellion, asserting individuality in a society that sought to suppress Black expression.
However, the zoot suit also made wearers targets of racial discrimination. Young Black men in these outfits were often labeled as troublemakers, and tensions escalated during the Zoot Suit Riots of 1943, when white U.S. servicemen in Los Angeles violently attacked Black and Latino men wearing zoot suits. Fueled by wartime resentment over fabric rationing, the riots reflected deep-seated racial hatred, with the hostility toward zoot suit culture also affecting Black communities in Harlem.
Young Black men wearing zoot suits, a bold and stylish ensemble that became a symbol of self-expression and defiance against racial and social norms of the time.
For women, the flapper dress defined the era, particularly in Harlem’s lively speakeasies and jazz clubs. These dresses were loose-fitting, knee-length, and often adorned with fringe, beads, and sequins, designed to move effortlessly on the dance floor. The flapper style rejected Victorian modesty, embracing a more liberated, modern woman. Many Black women in Harlem paired their dresses with bobbed hair, bold makeup, and statement jewelry, adding to the era’s spirit of independence and glamour.
Both styles reflected the changing social landscape of Harlem, where Black culture, music, and style flourished despite systemic racism and economic challenges.
Ma Rainey and her Georgia Jazz Band
Ma Rainey, known as the 'Mother of the Blues,' was a powerful figure in the Harlem Renaissance, shaping both the music and fashion scenes of the 1920s. Her bold style and commanding presence helped define the era.
The Legacy of Harlem Renaissance Fashion
The fashion of the Harlem Renaissance continues to have an enduring impact on modern fashion and culture. Harlem's legacy can be seen in streetwear, high fashion, and global movements that celebrate Black creativity and innovation. The bold, confident styles that emerged from this period influenced designers like Dapper Dan, who revolutionized streetwear in the '80s and '90s by mixing high fashion with hip-hop culture.
The Harlem Renaissance laid the foundation for the Black cultural movements that would continue through the 20th century and into the present. It wasn’t just a fleeting moment—it was a pivotal point that helped shape the very fabric of Black identity and style. From the runways of Paris to the streets of New York, Harlem’s impact on fashion remains undeniable. Harlem isn’t just a neighborhood—it is the birthplace of a cultural revolution that still influences the world of fashion, art, and music today.
To deepen your understanding of the Harlem Renaissance and immerse yourself in the fashion, culture, and spirit of the time, here are some resources to explore:
Books:
Fashion & Jazz by Alphonso McClendon
This book explores the deep connection between fashion and jazz during the Harlem Renaissance. McClendon delves into how both cultural movements shaped and influenced each other, focusing on the vibrant fashion scene that defined Harlem's nightlife and its impact on broader cultural trends.The Blacker the Berry by Wallace Thurman
A groundbreaking novel, The Blacker the Berry (1929) by Wallace Thurman examines the complexities of colorism within the Black community during the Harlem Renaissance. It follows Emma Lou Morgan, a dark-skinned young woman from Idaho, who moves to Harlem and confronts the prejudice and discrimination she faces from lighter-skinned Black Americans. This novel explores Emma Lou's journey toward self-acceptance, making it one of the first works to address colorism and its effects on personal identity.Dandy Lion by Shantrelle P. Lewis
Dandy Lion by Shantrelle P. Lewis is a stunning collection of photographs and stories celebrating Black men’s style throughout history, with a special focus on the Harlem Renaissance. The book highlights the Dandy, a figure of sartorial elegance, and the evolution of Black masculinity through fashion, capturing how it became an expression of individuality and cultural pride during a time of racial and social transformation.
Music:
Louis Armstrong - "What a Wonderful World"
While Armstrong's career blossomed after the Harlem Renaissance, his early work captures the spirit of the era and the Jazz Age. His music is synonymous with Harlem’s nightlife and cultural scene.Duke Ellington - "Take the A Train"
Ellington’s music defined Harlem’s Cotton Club and was a major influence on the fashion and the lifestyle of the time. "Take the A Train" is the perfect example of Harlem’s lively, sophisticated jazz culture.Billie Holiday - "God Bless the Child"
Billie Holiday’s music and style were at the heart of Harlem's jazz scene. Her deep, soulful voice and glamorous, understated fashion made her an icon.Bessie Smith - "Down Hearted Blues"
Known as the "Empress of the Blues," Bessie Smith’s music played a huge role in shaping Harlem’s cultural and fashion landscapes. Her presence in Harlem was a defining aspect of the Renaissance.
Clips:
A Zoot Suit (with A Reet Pleat) 1942
Watch Dorothy Dandridge in this iconic performance from 1942, where she showcases the exuberance and flair of the zoot suit era. Joined by Paul White, Dandridge's captivating presence brings to life the bold, stylish spirit of the time, paying homage to the fashion and cultural significance of the zoot suit in the Black American community during the Harlem Renaissance and beyond.1929 Harlem Fashion Show - Historic Films Stock Footage Archive
Experience the fashion of the 1920s through a visually captivating fashion show clip that brings the glamour and chic aesthetics of the Harlem Renaissance to life.