The Legacy of Black Designers
Elizabeth Keckley, an activist, designer and entrepreneur
It’s no secret that the fashion industry has struggled with inclusivity for decades. What has often been hidden, however, is the undeniable impact of Black designers who defied exclusion, broke barriers, and built legacies that demand recognition.
Take Ms. Ann Lowe, for example. In 1964, The Saturday Evening Post called her "society’s best-kept secret." Though she designed Jacqueline Kennedy’s iconic wedding dress, she received no credit at the time. It wasn’t until a decade later that she began to gain the recognition she deserved.
But Ann Lowe’s influence extends far beyond that one dress. The great-granddaughter of an enslaved woman, she learned the craft from her mother and grandmother, both skilled seamstresses who ran a dressmaking business. Taking over the business after her mother’s passing, Lowe later launched her own ventures, designing for high-society clients. Despite her immense talent, she was often underpaid and exploited as a Black woman in fashion. Her final store, Ann Lowe’s Originals, operated from 1968 to 1972. A true visionary and pioneer, she deserved far more recognition during her lifetime.
Unfortunately, Lowe is just one of many Black designers whose contributions were only acknowledged posthumously. It is our collective responsibility to ensure that Black fashion creatives are celebrated, their legacies preserved, and their rightful place in history restored. Black designers have made groundbreaking contributions to fashion, yet they have frequently been overlooked, receiving far less visibility than their peers.
At Hems & Brims, we are committed to changing this narrative—honoring the past while empowering the next generation of Black creatives to claim their space in the industry.
The Overlooked Legacy of Black Women in Fashion
Black women have long been at the forefront of fashion innovation, yet their contributions often go unrecognized. Despite their impact, history frequently overlooks their roles as designers and innovators. Elizabeth Keckley is often addressed as a dressmaker, but in many ways, she was a designer—creating original garments for prominent figures of her time. Her exceptional craftsmanship, business acumen, and activism helped carve out opportunities for Black creatives in fashion.
Historically, Black women in fashion were often classified as dressmakers rather than designers—a distinction that diminished their creative contributions and technical expertise. While white counterparts like Charles Frederick Worth are credited with pioneering haute couture, Black women who designed and constructed garments were rarely given the same recognition. This linguistic bias not only erased their contributions but also reinforced racial and gender hierarchies in the industry. By reclaiming figures like Elizabeth Keckley as designers, we acknowledge the full scope of their impact and challenge the historical exclusion of Black creatives from fashion history.
Pioneers Who Shaped Fashion
Elizabeth Keckley: An activist, designer, and author, Keckley was born into slavery, bought her freedom, and became a leading figure in Washington, D.C., advocating for education and social justice.
Lois K. Alexander Lane: Founder of the Harlem Institute of Fashion and the Black Fashion Museum, she dedicated her life to preserving the contributions of Black designers, ensuring their stories were not forgotten.
Stephen Burrows: One of the first Black designers to achieve international acclaim, Burrows was known for his bold colors and fluid jersey designs. He made history at the 1973 Battle of Versailles fashion show, where American designers—including Burrows—outshone their French counterparts.
Patrick Kelly: With his playful, vibrant designs, Kelly became the first American designer admitted into the prestigious Chambre Syndicale du Prêt-à-Porter in Paris, breaking barriers in the 1980s fashion scene.
Black Designers Today: Innovators of the Present
While the industry has made strides toward inclusivity, Black designers still face challenges in gaining recognition, securing funding, and receiving equitable opportunities. Despite these hurdles, modern Black designers are leaving an indelible mark on the industry:
Fe Noel: A visionary designer who merges Caribbean influence with contemporary luxury, Fe Noel creates vibrant, flowing designs that celebrate femininity and cultural pride.
LaQuan Smith: Known for his sultry, high-glamour designs, LaQuan Smith has dressed some of the world’s biggest stars. His bold pieces exude confidence and have cemented his status as a leader in modern fashion.
Telfar Clemens: With a mission to create fashion “for everyone,” Telfar Clemens has transformed the industry with his inclusive and accessible designs.
Anifa Mvuemba: The founder of Hanifa, Anifa Mvuemba is celebrated for her groundbreaking digital fashion presentations, including her viral 3D runway show.
The Challenges Black Designers Still Face
Despite their immense contributions, Black designers continue to face systemic challenges:
Limited Access to Resources: From securing funding to accessing high-quality materials, Black designers often lack the same opportunities as their white counterparts.
Bias in Recognition: Black designers are frequently overshadowed in awards and industry accolades, with their innovations attributed to others.
Gatekeeping in High Fashion: The fashion industry still struggles with gatekeeping, making it difficult for emerging Black designers to enter and thrive in luxury markets.
These challenges underscore the importance of creating pathways for future designers to succeed.
The Future of Black Fashion Creatives
The future of creating a more inclusive future in fashion lies in empowerment, education, and opportunity. It is crucial to:
Celebrate Legacy: By preserving and sharing the stories of Black designers, we inspire the next generation to dream bigger.
Provide Access: Mentorship programs, scholarships, and internships can help bridge the gap for young Black creatives.
Foster Community: Building networks among Black designers, industry professionals, and allies strengthens the foundation for lasting change.
Legacy at Hems & Brims
At Hems & Brims, one of our core values is legacy. Legacy is about honoring the past while building the future. For us, that means cultivating the next generation of Black fashion creatives by providing them with the resources, mentorship, and opportunities they need to thrive.
Our organization is dedicated to celebrating the rich history of Black creatives while empowering the next generation to leave their own mark on the industry. By prioritizing education and community, we aim to close the disparity gap in fashion.
The legacy of Black designers is one of resilience, creativity, and boundless talent. It’s a legacy we are proud to celebrate and carry forward.